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Reel Time: Spain - Seville and Andalusia

Reel Time: Spain – Seville and Andalusia

Our travels in Spain concluded with a trip to Seville located in the southwestern Iberian peninsula on the Guadalquivir River.

Seville is the capital of the autonomous community of Andalusia and is approximately 2,200 years old. The many civilizations that ruled the area over its history left the region with a distinct character, and its large and well-preserved historical center, where we stayed, is rich in reminders of that past.

Over five days we were able to explore the city on foot and visit some of the iconic remnants of the cultures that shaped the city. Over two millennia, the Visigoths, Romans, Moors and Christians shaped and reshaped the region. That diversity created the Seville of today and is reflected in its distinct cuisine as well as iconic structures like the Seville Cathedral and the adjacent Royal Alcazar, which were registered in 1987 by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.

Reel Time: Spain - Seville and Andalusia
An ornate ceiling in the Alcazar. – Rusty Chinnis | Sun

During our visit to Seville we took the advice of locals to “get lost” in the maze of narrow streets as well as visiting the community of Triana with its heritage of tile making and the Museum of Fine Arts with its wonderful collection of important Spanish artists. While we enjoyed all of Seville’s charms, it was the cuisine and a guided trip to the Royal Alcazar that were the highlights of the visit.

Over several nights we explored local restaurants that featured a wonderful combination of dishes that, combined with their on-signature flavor and ambiance, left a memorable impression.

We visited the Alcazar with a local guide, Andres, who provided us with a delightful introduction to the amazing history and architecture of the Palace. It’s one of the best places to experience the remarkable craftsmanship of the Moors, most of which was replaced by the Christians that captured the city in the 13th century. The Alcazar suffered some of the same fate but fortunately, much of the ornate architecture and art of the Moors was preserved thanks to Peter of Castile, a Spanish king who valued its remarkable design elements. During the tour, Andres provided an engaging, informational and lighthearted look at the Alcazar and its large ornate gardens.

Adjacent to the Alcazar is the Seville Cathedral with its Giralda tower where the hearty explorer can get the best views of the city. The cathedral is the third-largest church and largest Gothic structure in the world. The bell tower was built as the minaret for the Great Mosque of Seville and a renaissance style top was added by the Catholics after the Muslims were expelled from the city.

Our trip to Spain was one of the rare excursions where our expectations were exceeded. The combination of culture, resplendent landscapes, cuisine and the warmth of the people created the kind of memorable experience one is eager to share. Spain is a vibrant modern culture that is moving into the future while protecting its remarkable history.

Reel Time: Spain – Basque Country and Andalusa

Reel Time: Spain – Basque Country and Andalusia

For a country that’s smaller geographically than Texas, Spain is diverse in its culture, customs and cuisine.

After exploring the capital Madrid and the ancient city of Toledo, a short flight to San Sebastian on Spain’s northern coast seemed more distant as the autonomous Basque Country is distinct, with its strong cultural traditions, celebrated cuisine and distinct language pre-dating the Romance languages. A vibrant coastal city, San Sebastian is a resort town on the Bay of Biscay that’s celebrated for its picturesque bayfront promenade and beaches lined by world-renowned restaurants.

The cobblestoned old town, Parte Vieja, features a variety of upscale shops and vibrant pintxos bars, or tapas restaurants as they’re known here, that pair local wines with the small portioned regional specialties. We were centrally located in the Old Town in the Pension Iturriza, an intimate accommodation that was just steps away from the harbor, pintxos bars and the picturesque Monte Urgull, a public park that features the remains of fortification that dates back to the 12th century.

The park has many winding trails along the Atlantic Ocean’s rocky coastline and spectacular views of the city and bay from its lofty promontory. The city also has a world renounced film festival and a beach that attracts surfers from around the world. A local square was a wonderful place to people watch and featured a bandstand where musicians entertained tourists as locals participated in traditional Basque dances.

At the suggestion of our hosts Ibon and Miata, we rented a car and drove to the small coastal town of Zumaia that is world-renowned for a geologic formation along its beaches that’s known as the Flysch, the longest set of this particular continuous rock strata in the world. A walk along the beach with its towering cliffs and caves that feature the uplifted layers of sedimentary rocks was truly awe-inspiring.

On the final leg of our trip, we traveled south to Seville in the autonomous region of Andalusia, situated on the southwestern Iberian peninsula, an area rich in a mix of cultures dating from the early Romans. Over the centuries, it was dominated first by the Moors and then Christians. On the first day, we took an electric bike tour with a local company Elecmove that gave us an excellent introduction to the city and lesser know but more authentic enclaves like Triana.

Next week we explore the Giraldi Bell Tower, The Alcazar and the fabulous cuisine of Seville.

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Reel Time: Spain – Madrid and Toledo

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Reel Time: Spain – Madrid and Toledo

Reel Time: Spain – Madrid and Toledo

Spain was never on my list of places to travel. When looking for a new destination to explore, Chris and I settled on Portugal and somehow those plans morphed into an adventure in this small country that at one time dominated the known world.

As I write this, the bells of the Basilica of Santa Maria Del Coro Catholic Church (circa 1774) in San Sebastian are ringing. Many times a day they announce the time and call the faithful to Mass and prayer.

We began our trip in Madrid, the capital of Spain, where we stayed for four days. While we originally only considered Madrid as a central point to begin our stay, it turned out to be a memorable experience. In four days we explored the central city by bike, enjoyed tapas in the Mercado de San Miguel, made an excursion to the nearby city of Toledo and spent a day viewing some of the world’s finest art in the Prado Museum.

Mercado Reel Time
The Mercado San Miguel in Madrid provides an excellent cast of Spanish Tapas. – Rusty Chinnis | Sun

I found out before the trip that my old friend Rallis Papas would be in Madrid on business. Rallis introduced me to some of the city’s highlights, including its world-famous tapas, an appetizer or snack in Spanish cuisine. Spain is famous for its tapas bars, and Madrid has some of the best. That first night I got a terrific introduction to this unique and delicious tradition.

On our first full day in Madrid, we took a guided tour of the city on Ebikes and experienced a side of the city that we would probably have never seen. The excursion started in the Plaza de San Miguel with a ride in the Parque Madrid Rio, a 6-kilometer park along the Manzanares river that was once a busy motorway. That road was relocated underground and resulted in a delightful park with playgrounds, gardens and public walkways. After touring the riverside park, we headed high over the city to the Casa De Campo public park.

“The history of Casa de Campo began with the decision by Philip II to move the Capital (Court) to Madrid. It was declared a Bosque Real (Royal Forest) under Fernando VI. Carlos III gave it a new twist when he introduced livestock and agriculture as one of its purposes, which would be continued by Queen María Cristina. After the proclamation of the Second Republic, the State donated the Casa de Campo to the people of Madrid (May 1, 1931), and it has been open to the public ever since.”

We enjoyed spectacular views of the city from on high and reveled in the cool and dry weather that greeted us in Madrid. The park is accessible by cable car from the city but was closed on the day we visited due to high (and refreshing) winds.

On our second day in Spain, we took a tour from Madrid to Toledo, an ancient hilltop town an hour south of Madrid. Toledo was declared a World Heritage site in 1986 for its extensive monumental and cultural heritage.

Toledo is known as the Imperial City for having been the main venue of the court of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, and as the “City of the Three Cultures” for the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims and Jews that are reflected in its history.

After touring the Old Town and the magnificent Cathedral De Toledo, we headed south to an authentic farmstead and estate where we were treated to lunch and a ride through the farm in an open-top 4WD truck. The farm is owned by a Spanish Count and encompasses over 16,000 hectares.

On our last day in Madrid, we took a tour of the world-famous Prado Museum with Jamie, an art historian, who presented a fascinating look at the paintings, the artists, culture and the history of Spain through its art. The tour included an introduction to the paintings of  Francisco de Goya, Spain’s most famous artist.

The Prado houses the world’s largest collection of Goya’s work as well as of Flemish artists including Hieronymus Bosch and his “Garden of Earthly Delights.”  Next week – Basque country and south to Sevilla.

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